The round loose diamond is one of the most popular diamond shapes for engagement and wedding rings. This may be due to the symbolism of the circle itself - it has no beginning, and no end, as eternal as true love itself. Or it can also be how the round brilliant cut has proven to be one of the best ways of enhancing a loose diamond's shine. After all, there is a mathematical precision to round cut loose diamonds, perfected over the centuries. To understand this, we must look at the shape itself, and how it works to reflect the light off the diamond's surface.
Round brilliant Loose diamonds are actually shaped like a cone, with a curved top (known among jewelers as "the crown") that expands to a wider base, and then tapers downwards to a sharp point. This design was developed in the 17th century by Ambassador Julian Cardinal Mazarin (in fact, the first round brilliant loose diamonds were called Mazarins cuts). To create maximum shine, he shaped the diamond to have 17 flat surfaces, called facets, which would reflect light from all sides. Another noted jeweler, Vincent Peruzzi, introduced 33 facets. But it was Marcel Tolkowsky who was able to devise a precise and thorough mathematical model for Mazarin's design. Using geometrical calculations, he discovered that a 58-facet cut would create the maximum amount of brilliance, and then identified the perfect proportions of the crown, diameter and base.
Modern jewelers still refer to what they call the "Tolkowsky's ideal cut method". Here, the diameter of the round loose diamonds must fall within the range of 52.4 to 57.5 percent, and the crown angled within the range of 33.7% and 35.8%. He also suggested that the loose diamond's "pavilion" (or the cone on which the crown rests) should measure within the range of 42.2% and 43.8%. However, some jewelers have found Tolkowsky's proportions to be limiting, and have offered other formulas for cutting a stone. In the end, the user is the judge: regardless of the method used, it is your preference and the brilliance you see with your own eyes that determines if the round loose diamond is worth the buy.
Round brilliants are very flattering on slender fingers, particularly if you choose a setting that gives a little height to the stone. This pulls the eye away from the finger, a perspective that will show off the grace and length of your hand. For those who have thick and wide fingers, but still want to wear a round loose diamond ring, choose a setting that is a little bolder or chunkier, since a delicate design would only make your hand look even bigger. Round loose diamonds are also a very popular shape for earring studs: a tiny touch of bling to take an outfit from day to night. Smaller loose diamonds may also be clustered and combined with gems of other colors to create unique and breathtaking jewelry. These design innovations have allowed the "classic" and "traditional" round brilliant to be used even in modern, edgier styles.
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